The Best of Paris FW Spring/Summer 2012

I skipped London and Milan FW, but that’s not important right now, because this is what just happened in Paris.

Lanvin Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

Lanvin. Rock ‘n Roll Goddess.

Givenchy Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci. I had a hard time picking out just one look, this collection is amazing.  This may not be the most wearable look (there were tons that were) but I think it represents his vision for this collection well.  Tisci gets better and becomes more relevant each season.

Isabel Marant Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

Isabel Marant. It’s all about a slouchy, slim pant right now. I’m obsessed. This was by far the most casual look of the collection, but it’s all about the pants. Girl can do a pant. 

Kanye West Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

Kanye West. (What you read.)

The critics’ reaction, basically: “I’m happy for you Kanye, and I’mma let you finish, but first I’mma tear your shit to shreds.”  

Actually, I thought his collection showed a glimmer of promise, but overall it was ill-fitting and trite. Let’s see if with more experience (and a good tailor?) he can come up with something decent.  I think he genuinely gets fashion, but it will be tough to overcome the rapper-playing-with-fashion stigma.

But damn the shoes were hot.

Dw by Kanye West: Runway - Paris Fashion Week Spring / Summer 2012

Loewe Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

Loewe.

Jean Paul Gaultier Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

Jean Paul Gaultier.

Haider Ackermann Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

Haider Ackerman. On the brink of becoming a household name.

Akris Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

Akris.

Celine Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

Celine.

Hermès Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

Hermes. (Respect.)

John Galliano Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

John Galiano.  Fired by Dior and showing again in less than a year.  I’m not sure if he really is an Anti-Semite or not, but look at this dress. 

Balmain Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

Balmain. Obsessed with this chambray skirt. Must have.

Stella McCartney Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

Stella McCartney. I’m not sure about this swirly, Disney-esque border she’s doing but I think it will be popular editorially. Anyway, at least she’s doing well so she can help her family out financially. 

 Emanuel Ungaro Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

Emanuel Ungaro.

Chloé Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

Chloe.

Yves Saint Laurent Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

Yves Saint Laurent Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

Yves St. Laurent. (Courtesy of Stefano Pilati.) That shoe is to die for.

Chanel Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

Chanel Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

Chanel Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

Chanel.  I don’t know how Karl Lagerfeld does it year after year, producing collections that are always chic and modern but still reverential to the House’s spirit and the original vision of Mademoiselle Coco.  He showed 85 looks this season (the story was an underwater pearl) and not a mediocre one in the bunch. I can’t say that about any other designer at this moment. He is one of the few that doesn’t sacrifice showmanship for wearability and vice versa.  Brilliant.

Valentino Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

Valentino Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

Valentino. In the hands of Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli, after Mr. Garavani’s retirement, the house seems to be relevant again and not just the go-to label for televised awards shows and galas.  These looks, two of my favorites, show the lux minimalism and soft flowered points of view of the collection. Lovely.

By the way, I’m really loving a metallic thong sandal for evening.

Valentino Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

Hakaan Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

Hakaan.

Paco Rabanne Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

Paco Rabanne Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

Paco Rabanne Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

Paco Rabanne. I’m not exactly sure what I’m seeing here, but it’s fantastic. The original Paco Rabanne, who made dresses out of small (and sharp) metal plates, would be proud. It’s really architecture as fashion. And that last dress? It’s made of paper.  

Alexander McQueen Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

Alexander McQueen Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

Alexander McQueen Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

Alexander McQueen Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

Alexander McQueen. Designer Sarah Burton (who made Kate Middleton’s dress) is really doing right by McQueen’s legacy. This collection was a beautiful, delicious swirl of what-the-fucknesss. 

And people, the shoes.

Alexander McQueen Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

And also this.

Alexander McQueen Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

Louis Vuitton Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

Louis Vuitton.  Not my favorite S/S collection (I think it may be time to let Marc Jacobs go on to another brand). Still the embroidery and applique work was superb (all those flowers are plastic with crystal “buds”), consistent with having some of the best craftsmanship in the world at your fingertips, and some pieces were lovely and sweet – if a bit frothy.  But we all know the elaborate clothing collections (of which only a handful of pieces are sent to stores for sale, and loaned to magazines for editorials and celebrities for public appearances) are merely a platform for selling millions of overpriced leather goods to rappers, soccer moms and everyone in between. And in that area, this collection did not disappoint:

Louis Vuitton Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

Louis Vuitton Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

Louis Vuitton Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

Here’s some of the detail of the hand work:

Louis Vuitton Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

Louis Vuitton Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

Miu Miu Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

Miu Miu. I guess it’s safe to say I’m not a Miu Miu customer. 

Elie Saab Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

Elie Saab. what to wear to accept your Oscar.

And that concludes Paris Fashion Week. Stay tuned for upcoming posts on living stylishly on a budget and the best of Fashion Week style.

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